Heated Table ~ Part Four
Okay, Here we go again. The last installment being back here. I've started doing some technical writing on how to construct a heated table frame near the end of this year. So far, this is what I've come up with:
The side pieces for the bottom are sized in the same manner, except they are positioned upside down in order to form a shelf with the simple addition of a ply-board cut to the finished perimeter. A height of six inches (or two circular holes spaces) is suggested.
Assembly manual for the heated table frame
Tools needed:
• A small adjustable wrench
• Fixed-size wrenches
• A 4-1/2” electric grinder ( or similar air-tool) with a cut-off wheel.
• A tape measure
• A small engineer’s square
• A pencil or scratch awl
(Front page)
This gauge of metal formed into ninety-degree angles can be purchased in the hardware department of home improvement stores in the USA . It is punched through with three different holes. One is circular, 3/8” in diameter and spaced three inches apart; the other two are oval and slightly smaller, oriented in two different directions ninety degrees from each other, and spaced 3/4" from their centers.
page1
The top pieces are sized so that the circular holes are 17/32” from their center to their ends, with mitre cuts of forty-five degrees on the top. The side pieces can be sized the same as the top pieces. Anything more than 23/32” from the centers to the ends will protrude above it.
page 2
The side pieces for the bottom are sized in the same manner, except they are positioned upside down in order to form a shelf with the simple addition of a ply-board cut to the finished perimeter. A height of six inches (or two circular holes spaces) is suggested.
page 3
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